The "perfect house" is cliche, an adage that does not exist in the life of a home inspector. Even the best built and most meticulously maintained homes will always have items that are in less than ideal condition. 

It doesn't matter how much or how little one pays for the home, there will be issues.  It doesn't matter if the house is old or new construction, there will be issues. With that said, it is important to me that when I meet with my clients that I take the time to explain things to them so they understand the issues and can make an informed decision as to whether or not they want to move forward with the transaction or ask the seller to make repairs.

Bennett Property Inspection has compiled a list of our ten most commonly found defects during our inspections. This list is by no means exhaustive, just what I see most frequently.

• Problems with installation of roofing materials are the single most common defect we find. Usually it doesn't mean the roof needs replaced, but rather that it is in need of maintenance or repair. That said, we do find roofs that need total replacement. Tile roofs are particularly problematic here in Florida.
• Plumbing leaks in and around the crawl space as well as dripping faucets, leaking fixtures, slow drains. Older homes are especially vulnerable if they still have their original cast iron or galvanized piping.
  

• Defective or missing GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, laundry rooms and outside.
  
• Visible open wire connections in the crawl space, attics and garages.
• Wet and damp crawl spaces
• Water Heater installations not being fully compliant with plumbing codes
• AC issues most common being leaky duct connections and dirty or moldy evaporator coils.
• Loose toilets
• Dishwashers not secured to the granite countertop
• Outlets that don’t work

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The Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that over 24,000 clothes dryer fires occur each year in the United States. Lint that collects in your vents is very combustible. Over time, your dryer vent has the propensity to fill with lint that gets past the dryer's filter. As the lint builds up, this can cause over-heating - which can lead to a fire as well.

Clothes dryers evaporate the water from wet clothing by blowing hot air past them while they tumble inside a spinning drum. Heat is provided by an electrical heating element or gas burner. Some heavy garment loads can contain more than a full gallon of water which, during the drying process, will become airborne water vapor and leave the dryer and home through an exhaust duct (more commonly known as a dryer vent).

The clogging of the dryer vents prevents the adequate removal of air and moisture from the dryer, and a typical 45 minute cycle turns into an hour and 45 minute cycle, resulting in a waste of energy, additional clothes fibers lost and the frightening possibility of a fire. This leaves some scratching their head, frustrated and confused they just throw some additional time on the dryer to finish the job perpetuating a very dangerous problem. Clothes dryers are one of the most expensive appliances in your home to operate. The longer they run, the more money they cost you.

Problems from clogged dryer vents can be prevented with by regularly checking the inside of the dryer and the dryer exhaust system vents. 

If your dryer vents the exhaust moist air to the home's exterior, it has a number of requirements:

1.) It should be connected. The connection is usually behind the dryer but may be beneath it. Look carefully to make sure it’s actually connected.

2.) It should not be restricted. Dryer vents are often made from flexible plastic or metal duct, which may be easily kinked or crushed where they exit the dryer and enter the wall or floor. This is often a problem since dryers tend to be tucked away into small areas with little room to work. Vent hardware is available which is designed to turn 90° in a limited space without restricting the flow of exhaust air. Restrictions should be noted in the inspector's report. Airflow restrictions are a potential fire hazard.

3.) One of the reasons that restrictions are a potential fire hazard is that, along with water vapor evaporated out of wet clothes, the exhaust stream carries lint – highly flammable particles of clothing made of cotton and polyester. Lint can accumulate in an exhaust duct, reducing the dryer’s ability to expel heated water vapor, which then accumulates as heat energy within the machine. As the dryer overheats, mechanical failures can trigger sparks, which can cause lint trapped in the dryer vent to burst into flames. This condition can cause the whole house to burst into flames. Fires generally originate within the dryer but spread by escaping through the ventilation duct, incinerating trapped lint, and following its path into the building wall.

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These days everyone could stand to save a few bucks. Homeowners in Tampa/St.Petersburg and the surrounding areas can save significant amounts of money on their Homeowners insurance with a Wind Mitigation Report. The State of Florida allows homeowners certain premium reductions based upon their homes wind resistance features. Depending on your homes characteristics,  you could possibly save up to a 50% on your policy premium.

Don’t let any more of your hard earned money escape your pocketbook, especially if there is something you can do about it with a simple phone call.  

Let Bennett Property Inspection help you with a Wind Mitigation inspection. 

Give us a call today to set up your appointment!

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Burglary is a crime of opportunity.  And burglars don’t want to spend a lot of time looking through a home to find things of value to steal, which is why there are obvious locations that they always check.  That means that there are ways to outsmart them by hiding your valuables in not-so-obvious places, and sometimes even in plain sight.

Depending on the size and type of item, the best places to hide valuables are those that burglars don’t want to search through or wouldn’t bother with, including places that are inconvenient or difficult to search, messy, or uninteresting.

Here Are the Top 10:

1. Hollowed-out books.  Criminals tend to be uneducated, which is why they’ve turned to crime to  make their living.  They’re practically allergic to books!  But if you have only a couple of books on a bookshelf, this may be a clue that they’re actually hiding places for your valuables, so make sure your library is large enough to serve as a tedious place to search.

2. A false VHS tape or VHS carton.  Who watches VHS tapes anymore?  Again, follow the rules above for books.  A few can be a clue, but many can be a time-consuming distraction.

3. False containers in the kitchen cupboard, under the sink, and in the bathroom, such as fake food cans and boxes, false cleaning product bottles, and personal hygiene items, and even in a heavy tub of "cat litter."  Some false containers available on the market today actually look like false containers, so you might want to save yourself the expense and create your own.

4. In the false bottom or under the plastic liner of a bathroom or kitchen trash can.  No one wants to go pawing through your trash in the slim hope of finding something worth pawning.

5. Wrapped in plastic and aluminum foil and stored in the back of the freezer.  This is also a good place to store documents and paper currency in case of a house fire.

6. In a floor safe in the bedroom closet.  While this location may be obvious, a burglar would have to exert a lot of time and energy—and create a lot of noise—trying to break into a floor safe, which is also generally of the heavy variety, making it not only hard to open, but hard to steal whole, if the thief had plans to break into it later.  

7. Inside a house plant.  Using the same method as for trash containers, a plant’s soil can be contained in a waterproof liner that can be lifted up to hide items underneath.  Just make sure the items you’re hiding are in a waterproof container, too.

8. Inside a false wall outlet.  Make sure it’s not a live receptacle or in the way of any electrical wiring. 

9. Within hollowed-out/removable building components, such as wainscoting, floor panels, door jambs, window sills, and cabinet doors.

10. In the garage inside boxes marked with mundane labels, such as “Xmas Ornaments,” “Kid’s Clothes,” “School Projects,” etc.  Again, the more boxes you have, the longer the burglar will have to search—if he’s so inclined—to find something worth stealing.

Hiding Places to Avoid:

Areas that can damage your valuables with water or invasive matter, such as the water tank of a toilet, inside a mayonnaise jar that still has mayonnaise in it, or a paint can filled with paint.  There are high-quality waterproof containers on the market that will allow you to hide items in water (and possibly other places), but err on the side of caution.  Documents, jewelry and electronics that become wet or permeated with chemicals or food matter may be damaged beyond repair in your zeal to outsmart a tenacious burglar.  

A jewelry box.  This is a good place to store jewelry that you can afford to lose, but not your diamond tennis bracelet or your grandmother’s antique wedding ring.

Your desk drawer, bedside drawer, or underwear drawer.  Too obvious.

Inside CD cases.  It’s true:  burglars still prefer CDs to MP3s.

Inside DVD cases.  DVDs and Xbox-type games are worth between $2 and $10 at pawn and re-sale shops; count on being cleaned out of your collection during a home burglary, regardless of the titles.

A wall safe.  Unless it’s high-end and professionally installed, a wall safe can be dislodged by cutting the drywall seam around it, and wall safes are typically small and light enough to easily transport off site to be opened later.  Opt for the heavier and harder-to-access floor safe.

Inside picture frames with false backs/interiors.  These tend to be thicker than typical picture frames, so they’re easy to spot as a hiding place.

A cookie jar.  Put cookies in it, not your grocery money.
  
An electrical item or heated area, such as a lamp base, toaster oven, or HVAC duct.  You could accidentally ignite your valuables and put your entire home at risk for a house fire.  

Any locked box or locking file cabinet.  A box that has a lock on it will be stolen regardless of what’s inside, and the lock on a file cabinet can be popped out with the right tool and a little effort.
Other Precautions

For valuables that you can’t hide or lock up, such as a flat-screen TV, stereo system, and computers, make sure they’re insured through your homeowner’s or renter’s insurance.  Unless you invest in a home security system (and sometimes even if you do), it’s not possible to protect every item in your home.  But you can take precautions to password-protect and GPS-activate laptops and smartphones so that their recovery is more likely, should they be stolen. 

Also, firearms should be properly locked in an approved gun safe that is stored out of reach for the safety of the home’s occupants, as well as to deter theft.

Place a pole in the bottom track of your sliding glass patio doors so that they can’t be forced open wide enough to permit the entry of an intruder.  Install burglar-proof window locks that will allow you to leave your windows open slightly for fresh air, but not wide enough to allow a person to get through.

Remember that burglary is a crime of opportunity, so don’t tempt fate by leaving any exterior doors unlocked (including sliding glass patio doors, and the door between the garage and the living area), hiding a spare house key outdoors (under the “Welcome” mat, a large potted plant, statuary, or a solitary or fake rock), leaving the doors to your attached garage open (even when you’re home), or leaving the curtains or drapes open so that your valuables are in full view of prowlers and passersby.  Your personal safety is at risk as much as your personal property.

Also, don’t over-share personal information with the world by advertising your absence from home on social media.  When leaving on vacation, have a trusted neighbor, friend or family member monitor your home and bring in the newspaper, mail, and random take-out menu hung on your doorknob.  Install light timers indoors and security/motion detectors outdoors to illuminate your property’s exterior.  And go ahead and apply security company stickers to your windows/doors that advertise that your home is professionally protected, even if it’s not.   

In short, do what you can to make your home a difficult, inconvenient and time-consuming target that will force a would-be burglar to move on.  And do your part to keep your neighborhood safe by reporting suspicious activity on your street to the police.

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About 2.5 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child-safety devices on the market today. Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It's important to follow installation instructions carefully.
 
In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them. You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through online and mail-order catalogues.
 
InterNACHI inspectors, too, should know what to tell clients who are concerned about the safety of their children. Here are some child-safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children. 
 
1.  Use safety latches and locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.
 
Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but that are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.
 
But, according to Colleen Driscoll, executive director of the International Association for Child Safety (IAFCS), "Installing an ineffective latch on a cabinet is not an answer for helping parents with safety.  It is important to understand parental habits and behavior.  While a latch that loops around cabinet knob covers is not expensive and easy to install, most parents do not consistently re-latch it."
 
Parents should be sure to purchase and install safety products that they will actually adapt to and use. 
 
2.  Use safety gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw into the wall are more secure than "pressure gates." 
 
New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.
 
3.  Use door locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers, including swimming pools.
 
To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks on safety gates should be placed high, out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and alarms. Sliding glass doors with locks that must be re-secured after each use are often not an effective barrier to pool access.
 
Door knob covers, while inexpensive and recommended by some, are generally not effective for children who are tall enough to reach the doorknob; a child's ingenuity and persistence can usually trump the cover's effectiveness.
 
4.  Use anti-scald devices for faucets and shower heads, and set your water heater temperature to 120° F to help prevent burns from hot water. A plumber may need to install these. 
 
5.  Use smoke detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries. Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working. If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year, or consider using 10-year batteries.
 
6.  Use window guards and safety netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls.  Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than 4 inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.
 
7.  Use corner and edge bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls, and to soften falls against sharp and rough edges.
 
Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture and hearth edges.
 
8.  Use receptacle or outlet covers and plates to help prevent children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.
 
Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.
 
9.  Use a carbon monoxide (CO) detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.
 
10.  Cut window blind cords to help prevent children from strangling in blind-cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.
 
However, the IAFCS's Ms. Driscoll states, "Cordless is best.  Although not all families are able to replace all products, it is important that parents understand that any corded blind or window treatment can still be a hazard.  Unfortunately, children are still becoming entrapped in dangerous blind cords despite advances in safety in recent years."
 
For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, vertical blinds and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation. 

11.  Use door stops and door holders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.
 
Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.
 
12.  Use a cell or cordless phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas. Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.
 
 
In summary, there are a number of different safety devices that can be purchased to ensure the safety of children in the home. Homeowners can ask an InterNACHI inspector about these and other safety measures during their next inspection.  Parents should be sure to do their own consumer research to find the most effective safety devices for their home that are age-appropriate for their children's protection, as well as affordable and compatible with their household habits and lifestyles. 

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These checklists can help you manage homeowner maintenance tasks season by season so that everything gets done without you feeling overwhelmed. All homes are different, so these lists aren’t comprehensive, but they’ll help you get started with routine items that apply to most homes.

Annually
Hire me to perform your Annual Home Maintenance Inspection as part of your homeowner maintenance plan to check the structure, system and components, and to evaluate any problems you may be concerned about. www.bennettpropertyinspection.com


Spring

• If you suspect damage to your roof due to a recent storm, broken tree limb, or other cause, check for damage, but only if you can do so safely and with a helper present.
• Check all the fascia and trim for deterioration.
• Have a professional air conditioning contractor inspect and maintain your system as recommended by the manufacturer.
• Check your water heater for rust and leaks.
• Replace all extension cords that have become brittle, worn or damaged.
• Check your fire extinguishers.
• Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter.
• Repair cracked and uneven walkways and the driveway to maintain a level and undamaged surface.
• Check the shutoff valve at each plumbing fixture to make sure they function properly.
• Clean the clothes dryer exhaust duct, damper, and the space under the dryer.
• Inspect and clean dust from the covers of the smoke detectors and carbon-monoxide alarms.

Summer

• Check the kids’ backyard playset (swings, treehouse, trampoline, etc.) for wear and tear, and repair any damage.
• Check your wood deck and/or concrete patio for deterioration.
• Check the seals, caulking and weatherstripping around all windows and doors to ensure a tight seal to prevent heating and cooling loss.
• Check the water hoses on the washing machine, refrigerator ice maker, and dishwasher for cracks and bubbles.
• Make sure that any bushes and exterior foliage are not growing up against the house in order to prevent moisture intrusion, mold growth and structural damage.

Fall

• Have a professional heating contractor inspect and service your system as recommended by the manufacturer.
• Protect your plumbing system from freezing and damage by using special insulated blankets and wrapping for plumbing pipes and the water heater. Also, blow out excess water from the automatic sprinkler system, garden hoses and exterior hose bibb. Store garden hoses and cover the hose bibb with an insulated cover.
• Run all gas-powered lawn equipment until the fuel is gone.
• Test your emergency generator.
• Have a certified chimney sweep inspect and clean the chimney flue (especially to remove any birds’ nests) and check your fireplace damper for proper operation before you light the first fire of the season.
• Make sure that the caulking around all bathroom fixtures is adequate to prevent water from seeping behind tile work and bath and shower enclosures into the drywall behind them, as well as into the sub-flooring under the floors.
• Make sure that any firewood is not stacked up against the home in order to prevent moisture intrusion, mold growth and structural damage.
• Clean out gutters, rake leaves, and remove debris from the home’s exterior before the first freeze.
• If you notice any tree limbs that are overhanging your home or near exterior power lines, have a professional tree trimmer cut them back before the first frost to prevent them from breaking off and causing damage or injury.
• Remove and store window screens and install the storm windows.
• Check the exterior siding.
• Check the attic and basement for water intrusion.

Winter

• Familiarize responsible family members with the gas main shutoff valve and other appliance valves.
• Make sure all electrical holiday decorations have tight connections.
• Review your fire escape plan with your family.
• Make sure your house number is visible from the street for any emergency response personnel.
• Make sure all exterior lights are in good working order.

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Buying a home is very serious business. You'll need to get a substantial amount of capital together for a down payment, get financing for a loan and find a property to which you can commit for years or decades. When you finally pull the trigger on a property, you also commit to either live with or fix any of its problems. Finding those problems before you buy can save you thousands of dollars.

The following is a home inspection checklist for buyers that you can use along with your home inspector to ensure that everything is in good shape. 

1. Appliances. Before buying a home, turn on and test every appliance. Look to see if they are working properly without making noises, giving off unreasonable odors or showing any other signs of failure.
2. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The home's furnace, air conditioner and water heater all should operate without emitting odors or loud noises. They should also have clean filters and show signs of regular maintenance.
3. Electrical system. A licensed electrician can go well beyond the basic tasks on this home inspection checklist for buyers.  Still, a visual inspection of the panel and breakers to ensure that they are modern and in good repair with sufficient amps to run all of the appliances and systems is valuable. Testing outlets and fixtures to ensure that they operate properly can also provide an indication of deeper issues.
4. Plumbing. As possible, inspect the home's pipes for signs of damage, rust or leaks. When you test fixtures, look for adequate water pressure and temperature.  Watch water drains to ensure that the home's sewer capacity is adequate and properly functioning.
5. Roof and attic. Even a visual inspection can show signs of damage such as deteriorating or missing shingles, clogged gutters or damaged chimneys. If the home has a flat roof, look for signs of repairs or patches to the membrane. Water damage on the attic's ceiling is a sign of roof leakage. It's also wise to look at the attic's insulation to ensure that it is both ample and undamaged.
   
6. Exterior walls. A home's exterior should be in good repair with properly painted surfaces and caulk that has no cracks or other damage. In addition, the ground cover should be an appropriate distance from the siding to prevent termite intrusion. Professional termite inspection is also advisable in many regions.
7. The home's structure. Even if you aren't a structural engineer, you can still spot if the structure is sagging or has a bow in the center. Windows and doors should be aligned, and the foundation should appear to be in good condition. In earthquake zones, the buildings should be bolted to the foundation.
8. Garages and sheds. The principles that apply to the home also apply to connected or outbuildings like garages and storage sheds. Proper foundations, roofs, and sealing against the elements are equally important in these structures.
9. The surrounding land. Survey the property to ensure that it gradually slopes away from the home for proper drainage. In addition, look carefully at any paved surfaces since cracks or upheavals could be signs of forces that may have also caused foundation damage. 

While this home inspection checklist for buyers is a good start for determining if you want to consider a home, it is no substitute for a professional inspection conducted by an expert. In addition, it does not replace the home appraisal that your lender requires to determine the home's value. On the other hand, a home appraisal doesn't replace a professional home inspection. Ultimately, it's going to be your house, and inspecting it is your responsibility.  You should be present at your home inspection to ask any questions.

What have you seen in home inspections? Has an inspection saved you from making an expensive mistake? If so, share your stories below in the Comments section.


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 The dreaded day has come when you open the curtains or blinds to the sunshine only to expose the not-so-crystal clear windows, dusty tabletops, and dull carpets. If your home needs a little spring facelift, try these Five High Impact, Low Effort Spring Cleaning Must-Do’s that will instantly help brighten your home.

Brighten Your Home With These Five Spring Cleaning Tasks:

1. Wash the Windows.  A clear view brightens the entire house!  A simple way to do this is by removing the screens and brushing them clean with a broom.  Clean them using a hose with a multi-surface cleaner, and spray clean.  Making sure all windows are shut, use a window cleaner that attaches directly to your hose to spray exteriors of the windows clean.  But we think an even easier way to clean windows is to hire someone to do it for you! So worth the phone call to a professional!

2. Clean the Carpets and Rugs. Start with a fresh step! Cleaning your carpets and rugs makes the whole house feel cleaner and mists the air with scent that says “fresh.” You can rent carpet cleaners from any home improvement store for about $25 per day, or opt have someone come out and shampoo your rugs for $100-$150 for three areas.

3. Give the refrigerator a once-over. A healthy house begins with healthy dwellers.  Refrigerators are breeding grounds for bacteria and mold. Start by tossing any forgot about or expired condiments or food items.  Remove the remainder of the contents from the refrigerator and remove the shelves and drawers.  Wash these in the sink or dishwasher, then give the sides of the fridge a good wipe down. A clean fridge is just begging to filled with delicious and nutritious eats from the Farmer’s Market.

4. Clean the Floorboards, Doors, and Woodwork.  What’s not directly in front of us often gets neglected, yet floorboards, doors, and woodwork are some of the most abused components of our house.  They get kicked by shoes, scratched at by dogs, spilled on by kids, and touched by many hands.  With a clean cloth dipped in solution of water and a few drops of dish soap (wrung dry), run the cloth along the tops and fronts of each floor board.  Start at the bottom left side of the room and work your way around, stopping to wipe down any doors, window sills, or other woodwork along the way.  Don’t forget to sanitize the door handles and light switches as well.

5. Touch-Up Painted Walls.  Just as floorboards, doors and woodwork often get neglected, so does the everyday wear and tear on walls.  Use this time as an opportunity to clean spills and stains off the walls with a clean cloth (dipped in water with a couple drips of dish soap).  Once clean, scour the walls for areas that need touch up paint.  Start at the top left corner of each room and work your way down and to the right. Fill in any nail holes with spackling, then touch up with paint.

Who says that spring cleaning needs to take days complete?  These five, low-effort spring cleaning tasks can have your home looking, and smelling like new without exhausting yourself cleaning room-by-room.

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